Product Info
The BIG RED 500 and 600 are diesel engine driven welders capable of producing DC constant current output for stick welding, arc gouging, and DC TIG welding. They are also capable of producing 6000 watts of auxiliary power via an independent auxiliary rotor and stator.
Preventive Maintenance Schedule
Next interval:
- Change engine oil and filter
- Service air cleaner
- Replace fuel filter
- Check/replace cooling blower belt
- Check battery
- Service engine cooling system
Weekly:
- Blow out machine with low pressure air
Daily:
- Check crankcase oil level
- Refill fuel tank to minimize condensation
Parts List
- Air Cleaner Element: Dry cartridge type, can be cleaned and reused (Part Number: P822768, AF25436)
- Cooling Blower Belt: For engine cooling (Part Number: 223-5256, 7580)
- Oil Filter Element: For engine oil filtration (Part Number: 117-4418, PER2168, 1820, PH3776)
- Fuel Filter Element: For fuel filtration (Part Number: 117-4423, PC42, 3358, P4102)
- Water Separator Element: Two stage filter with water separating media (Part Number: M16890-C, 31572)
- Fuel Pre-Filter Screen: 150 micron screen to protect water separator (Part Number: M16890-B, 29575)
- Battery: Group 34 battery (Part Number: Not Available)
Product Specs Sheet
- Engine: Deutz 3 cylinder diesel, 32HP (24kW) @ 1800RPM, 125 cu. in. (2.05L) displacement, Tier 4i compliant
- Fuel Capacity: 20 US gallons (75.7L)
- Engine Oil Capacity: 6.3 quarts (6.0L)
- Welding Output: DC Constant Current, 400A/36V/100%, 450A/34V/60%, 500A/30V/40% (Big Red 500), 500A/40V/100%, 550A/34V/60%, 600A/30V/40% (Big Red 600)
- TIG Welding Output: 250A/20V/100%
- Auxiliary Power: Single phase 60Hz, 120/240VAC
- Dimensions: Height 36.87 in. (936.5 mm), Width 28.28 in. (718.3 mm), Depth 65.1 in. (1653.5 mm)
- Weight: 1538 lbs. (697 kg) for Big Red 500, 1657 lbs. (752 kg) for Big Red 600
Troubleshooting
- Major physical or electrical damage is evident when the sheet metal covers are removed:
- Contact the Lincoln Electric Service Department
- The engine starts and runs normally but there is no welding output or auxiliary voltage output:
- Check the 15amp auxiliary rotor circuit breaker (CB6), reset if tripped
- Check for loose or missing brushes on the auxiliary rotor
- Check for loose or broken lead connections at the auxiliary rotor brush holder
- Check the flashing diode bridge (D1) and the R1 resistor
- Check the field diode bridge (D3) and associated leads for loose or faulty connections
- Perform the Auxiliary Rotor Test
- Check for ‘opens’ or ‘shorts’ in the auxiliary stator windings
- The engine starts and runs normally but there is no welding output. The auxiliary voltage output is normal:
- Check the 15amp weld rotor circuit breaker (CB1), reset if tripped
- Check the welding cables for loose or faulty connections
- If a remote control device is not connected, the Local/Remote switch must be in the ‘local’ position
- Check for loose or missing brushes at the welding rotor
- Check for loose or broken lead connections at the welding rotor brush holder
- Perform the Weld Rotor Test
- Check the Output Range Switch and associated connections
- Check the Output Reactor for ‘opens’
- Check the heavy current carrying output leads between the output terminals and the three phase rectifier bridge for loose or faulty connections
- Perform the Three Phase Output Rectifier Test
- Check for ‘opens’ or ‘shorts’ in the weld stator windings
- The engine starts and runs normally but there is no auxiliary output. The welding output is normal:
- Check the circuit breakers CB4, CB3 and the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter
- Check the connections between the auxiliary receptacles, the circuit breakers and the stator windings for loose or faulty connections
- The welding open circuit voltage (OCV) cannot be varied or adjusted:
- If the machine is in the TIG mode, the OCV should be adjustable using the Fine Current Control or the Remote Control Potentiometer
- If the machine is in the Stick mode, the OCV will be held at a high level for hot starting and will not be adjustable until an arc is established
- The Fine Current Control may be faulty
- The Local/Remote switch may be faulty
- The Hot Start Relay may be faulty
- The Stick/Tig switch may be faulty
- The engine will not ‘crank’ when the Start Button is activated:
- Check the wiring for loose or faulty connections between the Start Button and the starter solenoid
- The Start Button may be faulty
- The starter motor or starter solenoid may be faulty
- The engine may be seized and in need of major repair
- The engine ‘cranks’ but will not start:
- Make sure the Run/Stop switch is in the ‘Run’ position
- Make sure the fuel shut-off valve is in the ‘open’ position
- If the Run/Stop switch has been in the ‘Run’ position for more than 60 seconds without the engine starting, the Run/Stop switch must be switched off (stop position) and then turned back to the ‘Run’ position
- The fuel filters may be clogged
- If there is a high oil temperature or low oil pressure condition, the engine protection light will be lit and the engine will ‘crank’ but will not start
- The engine starts but shuts down shortly after it starts:
- Make sure there is an adequate fuel supply in the fuel tank
- The fuel filters may be clogged
- If the engine protection light is lit, there may be a low oil pressure or high oil temperature condition
- If the battery light is lit, the battery charging system may be faulty causing a low battery condition
- The battery will not stay charged:
- Perform the Engine Alternator Test
- Check for a loose or broken fan belt
- The battery may be faulty
- The welding arc is weak and or erratic:
- Perform the Weld Rotor Test
- Check the Output Range Switch and associated connections
- Check the Output Reactor for ‘opens’
- Check the heavy current carrying output leads between the output terminals and the three phase rectifier bridge for loose or faulty connections
- Perform the Three Phase Output Rectifier Test
- When in the ‘Stick’ mode, getting the arc started is difficult:
- Make sure the Stick/Tig switch is in the Stick position and functioning correctly
- Check the Hot Start Relay (CR4) to make sure it is receiving 12VDC on the relay coil and the contacts are closing
- Check the Hot Start Diode Bridge (D4) and associated chokes
- With the engine running at 1890RPM, check for the presence of 65VAC at leads #206 to #207
Please
note that any procedure, checklist, or other document available on Limble is provided for general education and
information only and does not constitute legal, medical, or financial advice. Limble makes the materials available
AS IS and AS PROVIDED, without warranties of any kind. By downloading or using any such materials, you assume the
risk that they may not be appropriate for your specific situation and agree that you are solely responsible for any
such use, including compliance with applicable law and with meeting any conditions of product warranties. It is
recommended to contact OEM for the most accurate information.
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